FoxieBergerPicard

 I am including this, because interactive work and play can really make for a fun relationship with your dog, and have their mind actually have to work (which tends to wear them out). Equipment:  15' long line Training Collar Chuck-it type ball (easier for puppies) OR other favorite toy STEP 1:   Have your puppy near you on the long line.  You can have the line short at this point to keep them near you. STEP 2:   Throw the ball as you say "get it". STEP 3:   (Super important for the bringing back) Wait until your puppy latches onto the ball before saying "let's go".   DO NOT say "good boy" or "let's go" until they have a grip on the ball. NOTE:   If they don't go after the ball, first make sure you have not picked out a time the puppy is tired or has already trained enough.  Remember you want to do this when the puppy is fresh and ready to go.  If they are, but something has just distracted them or inhibited them, go towards the b...

 STEP 1:  Place flat leash on the ground. STEP 2:  Step on the leash, but you do not want the leash tight on the dog or puppy.    They should be able to stand if they want, but not get too far away from you.  ***Note unlike sit on the dog we are standing, and also we need to start in a really quiet non distracting area first, whereas on sit on the dog you can get away with being in a much more distracting area. STEP 3:  Wait not only for the puppy to go down, but also, you want their chin to rest on the ground.   Additionally, you want them totally relaxed and not sniffing or still actively seeking to check out their environment. STEP 4:  Time how long it takes to 1st Target behavior (total body relaxed and everything on the ground including their chin) and then how long the puppy or dog remains in target behavior. STEP 5:  Once the puppy or dog lifts their head up or engages in the environment again, wait until the second target be...

  NOTES ON FOXIE: Temperament:   As you know, Foxie is a puppy pre one years old, and his behaviors are typical of that.  He is friendly, loving, slightly timid, and likes to get his way when he feels comfortable with you.  He can be bossy at times, and this usually shows in the following behaviors: Poking you with his nose Barking at you Trying to chew or tug on your clothing Trying to chew or tug on the leash Bumping you with his body Barking in your face up close Pawing at you There are probably more that I am forgetting This does not happen all the time and is really quite mild.  I just want to point out those things I do not encourage in a younger male puppy.   He likes to keep busy and is energetic, but his energy level is within a reasonable range that play, walks, and training will keep him satisfied.   He has been good with dogs on leash, although this has been very early on.  At first, he was a little too much for an elderly do...

  PART 1 WALK AND SIT WITH ME (NO COMMANDS) ON LEASH:    NOTE1:  BECAUSE THIS IS A BEHAVIORAL EXERCISE, COMMANDS ARE NOT USED TRADITIONALLY. NOTE2:  I HAVE ONLY MOSTLY PART 1 WITH FOXIE SO FAR. STEP 1:    Make sure you put the transitional leash on correctly for handling your dog with the nose loop on and the safety attached to his collar.   STEP 2:   You can either start walking or start your dog off in a relaxed sit, and then start walking. STEP 3A:   In the very beginning, I stop at the first pressure the dog puts on the leash.   Also in the beginning you usually need to pull up on the leash to get them to sit.  Once the dog relaxes, I will walk again until the next time. STEP 3B:   When the dog has a handle on this concept, I may pull back slightly with my hand on the leash if I feel tension, but the dog is doing pretty okay.   Then I make up either paces or objects to which I will stop and pra...

  Long place is technically the 4th step in the overall place command:   First step is intro.  Intro is just walking the dog and letting them pass over it.  "Place" is said when all paws are on the place. Second step is teaching the dog to step on the place themselves. Third step is teaching them that there is a boundary they should not step off. Fourth step is beginning to proof and advance this exercise by having them keep themselves on the place for a period of time.   Trainer only gets involved if they try to leave. This teaches your dog that you might very well be in a seated position when they are in a place (while the third step has started the idea that you may be moving around the room).   This is tricky for dogs as they usually want to be petted or cuddled when you take a seat, but it is important that owners have time to read, work, eat a meal, and so on without constantly needing to pay attention to their dog.   Usually ...

   THE VERY BEGINNING OF THE PLACE (STEP 1): STEP 1:   Position your place equipment in the middle of the room. STEP 2:  Start walking your dog around the room. STEP 3:   Walk  with your dog over the place area.   When all four paws are in the place, say "place". STEP 4:   Repeat step three from every angle of the place mat or bed (remember dogs can totally interpret something as "just from this direction", so help them to learn to generalize the command by doing this). STEP 5:  After several (15 or so) repeats of this, stop short of the mat, and see if the dog is ready to step on themselves.   SEND TO PLACE (STEP 2): STEP 1:   You still have a leash and collar on your dog.   The place (board, mat, dog bed) item is in the middle of the room so you can walk around it, and use all sides to place your dog (so that they do not generalize). STEP 2:    Now as you a...

The goal for this week will be to do four in a row without needing the correction (which means it is very important to use the well timed correction when it is needed).   You will want to do this (with the heeling) for a half an hour a day. STEP 1 :  Heel with your dog, but be sure that your dog is in good heel position before preparing for the sit command.. STEP 2:    When ready say "sit" as you plant your left foot (while standing you will also close this up with your right foot, but you want to say sit while your dog is in good heel position to catch them as soon as possible---they will later learn to read this body language to create an auto sit).     Also keep your leash loose like a J next to the dog's neck when you say sit (no tension in the leash.   remember tension is only in times of correction) STEP 3: Give your dog one second, and have your leash prepared for the correction by having your hand down enough ...